By: Valerie Brockbank

 

Good or even great, doesn’t have to make us poor, in fact the invention of happy hour gourmet fare has made this endeavor down-right affordable.

One of the best happy hours we have come across is the Uptown Billiard’s 5-course tasting menu that features a different vegetable every two weeks. Yes, this is an upscale old-world billiard hall with beautiful tables and velvet curtains, but as the owner, Kent, says, “We’re not all fun and games!

The food, in the small library inspired dining room, is amazingly inventive and fresh. Their chef, Mark Potovsky, was named the best seafood chef in Canada, and has worked at one of my favorite places to visit and to dine, The Sooke Harbour House Bed and Breakfast and dining room, perched above the Pacific Ocean in Victoria, British Columbia.

Last week’s Happy Hour Menu featured asparagus from Martinez Farms in Canby, Ore. The menu can be sampled alone or with wine pairings; $10 for the dishes or $20 with the wine pairings. If you have a hefty appetite these dishes may be an appetizer, but for me they were satisfyingly filling.

We started with a leek, asparagus and watercress soup garnished with Rogue Creamery blue cheese and almonds; that was paired with a 3 Stones New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This was my favorite wine of the evening; crisp, and fruity with a vanilla nose and long finish, and it was a great match for the richness of the soup.

Course two was grilled asparagus with micro greens, shaved Regianno cheese and orange oil served with a Garofolio Verdicchio from Marche, Italy. This wine, although a little one dimensional, had a bit of smokiness to match the asparagus and a fruitiness to march the orange oil. Dish three was my favorite; a large seared scallop with pickled asparagus, on a bed of roasted carrot puree and tarragon pesto cream – I loved the roasted carrot puree. This dish paired beautifully with the mineral qualities of a Chateau Gaudrelle Vouvray from the Loire Valley.

The meat course featured perfectly crusted rare lamb slices on top of an unusual mushroom asparagus bread pudding, with apple-mint chutney and rosemary jus; it was served with local Yamhill County Marina Piper Pinot Noir. The tannin was just right for the lamb and the bell pepper finish complimented the bread pudding. We were all wondering how the chef was going to work asparagus into a dessert, but he did! The lemon asparagus pound cakewith Chantilly cream was earthy and delicious; the sweetness came from pairing it with a GD Vajra Moscasto d’Asti from Peidmonte, Italy.

Five dishes, a plethora of ingredients and many new cooking ideas later, we were making plans to come back every two weeks, as they change their featured ingredient. In fact, we’ve already made reservations for their Sorrel inspired menu next week. Now I can take this lovely herb way beyond soup!

3 Stones New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 95

Garofolio Verdicchio from Marche, Italy 80

Chateau Gaudrelle Vouvray from the Loire Valley 90

Yamhill County Marina Piper Pinot Noir 85

GD Vajra Moscasto d’Asti from Peidmonte, Italy 92

otv rating (0 to 20)

Food: 19 
$$ for happy hour, $$$$ for three course dinner

Vibe: 17 
Billiards $10/hr week nights, $12/hr on weekends.

Uptown Club
120 NW 23rd, Portland OR - (503) 226-6909

 

Once we found a place to park, we set out on our hunt for an acceptable place to eat in the neighborhood. We found a interesting mix of fusion at The Siam Society on Alberta Street; mostly Thai, with a little French and a little Indian - housed in a one hundred year-old historic power sub-station. The building alone, is worth a visit; the amazingly high ceiling, slit windows and remnants of machinery cast a diffused sepia-tones light across the wooden and cracked concrete floors.

The Siam Society is known for it’s imaginative drinks and happy hour, but we wanted something more substantial. I started with one of their muddled drink specials, a Hibiscus Mojito with rum, organic mint, hibiscus-flavored tea, lime juice and splash of soda. What could be better on a sunny Portland day than a pink drink to sip on!

For dinner we decided on a big pot of “Thom Kha”, coconut milk simmered with Kafir lime, lemon grass, onions and mushrooms. Not quite traditional; but it had a clean, comforting layering of sweet, salty, savory and acidic. I think I may replace chicken soup with this version on Thom Kha, the next time I’m under the weather. The two main dishes we ordered were the pan-seared scallops sauteed in Brazilian red palm or “aziete de dende” oil, coconut milk, garlic limes and red peppers; and Carlton Farms roasted pork, which was brined first and then roasted in banana leaves. The fish and meat stood out as fresh, expressive focal points to the spices. The scallops were crisp on the outside and rare on the inside, the pork was soft and silky.

The wine I picked to go with both dishes was a Grüner Veltliner, Velt. 1, 2007 from Austria, which retails for about $13 a bottle. This wine is drunk young and has a loyal following in Vienna clubs. Grüner Veltliner, grown in the clay soils of North East Austria, can age well and often takes on some of the best French Chardonnays in blind tastings. The Velt. 1 has grassy flavors with a hint of spiciness that goes well with the scallops, and and silky tropical finish was a good match for the roasted pork.

The Siam Society also has vegan, vegetarian and wheat-free menus on request. If you are just in the mood for drinks and a small bite to eat, the Soi Cowboy Lounge is located above the restaurant, or now that the weather is warming up plan to dine al fresco on their secluded patio.

An evening out that was elegant and relaxed; stepping forward into fusion and backward a century into local history. A rare find.

OTV Rating (0 to 20)

Food: 17
Service:17
Vibe: 18
$-$$$

siam society bistro & bar
2703 NE Alberta
Portland, OR
online

By: Valerie Brockbank

Wilsonville has a lot to offer, but as a resident, I know fine dining isn’t on the top of the activities list. An exception to that is Abella Italian Kitchen, a comfy, friendly meeting place in a mall next to the library, run by owners Mark and Sue Nelson, and their chef Luis Cruz. A little hard to find but once you do, the food and wine selections will keep you coming back. In fact, this is my weekly spot for Sunday Brunch; the Amaretto, hazelnut and seared pear french toast is my favorite.

But what draws the local culinary crowd to Abella is their monthly wine dinners. In April, the wine dinner featured the wines from Small Vineyards, a wine importer that represents “the best wine from small places.” They are involved with the wine from the time the cork goes into the bottle in Italy until you pull it out to drink several countries away; Small Vineyards calls this Tappo a Tappo: Cork to Cork.

The Abella menu reflected the same attention to detail. The antipasto course featured smoked mozzarella and a dry ricotta cheese with roasted peppers, roasted garlic and marinated vegetables, served with a Trevisiol Prosecco, a very mineral-tasting wine that paired very well with the cheeses. Jeff, from Small Vineyards, told us that the hill where these grapes are grown was once a sea bed—terroir matters!

caprese saladThe fresh, perfectly-dressed caprese salad was paired with a Perazzeta Sangiovese “Sara” 2007, a wine named for the winemaker’s daughter. The good acid and black pepper finish really boosted the basil flavors in the salad. My favorite wine of the night, a 100% Salento Negroamaro 2006, paired with the black olives, capers, basil and anchovies in the Pasta Puttanesca was exceptional. The deep black wine, with its trademark barnyard and freshly-dug earth nose and spicy dark chocolate, plum and cedar palate, is an amazing bottle of wine.

double-cut pork chops The Le Diacce 2004 Merlot was a crowd pleaser. This small-batch, older wine was a stylish and elegant match with the double-cut pork chops with dried bing cherry marmalade. The night ended with a rich Zabaione custard with fresh berries paired with a Tre Donne Moscato D’Asti—certainly not your super-fizzy, college-days Asti. The three-sister, fifth generation winemaking team created a 100% Moscato, slightly effervescent dessert wine with a rich honey nose, a cinnamon, caramelized-lemon palate and terrific acid—a stunning palate cleanser.

Zabaione custardA perfect pairing of food, wine, and stories from new friends and small winemakers.

Abella Italian Kitchen’s next wine dinner, featuring Napa’s Trinchero Family Estates, is Thursday, May 7, at 6:30 pm. The regular 1st Thursday wine dinners average around $65 per person, and reservations are recommended.

otv rating (0 to 20)

food: 17
service: 16
vibe: 11
$$-$$$$

Abella Italian Kitchen
8309 SW Main St. Wilsonville, Ore
(503) 582-1201
online 

Trevisiol Prosecco - 85
Perazzeta Sangiovese “Sara” 2007- 86
Salento Negroamaro 2006 - 95
Le Diacce 2004 Merlot - 92
Tre Donne Moscato D’Asti - 89

By: Laura Sabo 

 Drive down SE Belmont Street in the inner southeast section of Portland, and you’re sure to smell the aroma of potage, aka, soup bubbling out of the kitchen of Alf’s Soup Haus. The Belmont District is a combination retail and residential area that urbanized around the first trolley line in East Portland in 1888, with Belmont developing commercial businesses at the trolley stops with housing in between.

Scattered among the coffee shops and restaurants of today are a mix of Victorian, Craftsman and Bungalow-style homes, and in the middle of it all sits Popp & Co. Catering and Events housing Alf’s Soup Haus, which had its opening day on April 6, 2009.

Chef Alf ladling soupThe owners of Popp & Co. and Alf’s Soup Haus are the husband and wife team of Alf and Dorcas Popp. Chef Alf was born in Austria, cooking his way through Switzerland, Hong Kong, Saudi Arabia, The Philippines and various parts of the United States, including Washington DC, New Orleans, Oklahoma and Oregon. Dorcas, hailing from Texas, has a background in the food and beverage side of the hotel industry.

With the decrease of catered events and the increase of people looking for opportunities to cut corners, the Popp’s are offering Land-of-the-Giant sized portions of soup and bread for $5.00 during the lunch and dinner hours. All soups are seasonal, organic, and affordable, and are available for take-out or dining inside their catering kitchen at one of three large wooden tables.

On the day of my visit, there were four tantalizing choices — Buffalo Chili, Clam Chowder, Vegetable Beef and Gumbo. While there are not many things I like as well as soup, it was painstakingly difficult to choose only one so Chef Alf, in his inimitable Austrian demeanor, generously offered me two bowls. Actually, he offered all of them but I regained composure at two.

The Clam Chowder was rich and velvety smooth with the perfect amount of spice and the Gumbo was chalk-full of okra, sausage, red pepper and celery. The soups were accompanied by a homemade biscuit, warm and bubbly fresh from the oven served with pats of butter. Frequent soup slurpers earn one free soup after they have 10 soup purchases on their punch card. Better yet – Alf’s Soup Haus will donate the free meal to a local soup kitchen.

When Chef Alf’s not ladling soup, he caters, prepares Studio Dinners for 10-30 guests and features a Weekly Chef’s Table on Friday nights with wine, nibbles and a four-course dinner for up to a maximum of 30 fortunate individuals. The Chef’s Table has a seasonal menu alternating between meat and fish every other week.

So if you are feeling down in the dumps because of the weather, the economy or just want a piping hot bowl of awesome Austrian soup, head over to Alf’s Soup Haus. Like their business card touts, “We Put Our Reputation on Your Plate.”

www.AlfsSoupHaus.com(Monday-Friday 11-2 and 4-6)
www.poppcompany.com
(503) 233-8121
2420 SE Belmont, PDX

 

The Bread and Ink Cafe is just down the street from the historic Bagdad movie theatre, and has been on the corner of 36^th and Hawthorne for twenty-five years. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

At Bread and Ink, every dish is created using as many locally sourced ingredients as possible. They serve only natural meats, poultry and wild seafood, local vegetables, and breads and pastries that are baked fresh daily in their bakery. Some of their suppliers include Walnut Hill Farms, Queener Fruit Farm, Veridan Farms, Spada Farms, Groundworks Organics, MEO Farms, Draper Valley Chicken, Carlton Pork, and Strawberry Mountain Beef. Their comprehensive wine list features local Oregon and Washington state selections.

I wandered into Bread and Ink Cafe because it beckoned to two things I love in life—bread and printmaking. I felt sure I could get a good sandwich and an art experience at the same time. I wasn’t disappointed. I ordered the black bean burger with mango salsa on ciabatta, a curry lentil soup and a pecan mixed green salad, and paired the lunch with a glass of the house Cabernet Sauvignon. The walls were full of lino prints, acid etchings, and lithographs by local artists. The service was friendly and fast. The server asked me if I wanted ketchup or mustard; I hemmed and hawed a bit, and said “sure” and I’m glad I did. The condiments are homemade, and the ketchup was fresh, chunky and tangy.

The waiter said the Cabernet Sauvignon was from Tunnel Hill Winery in the Lake Chelan Wine Valley, in Washington State. It had enough tannin to stand up to the spicy lentil soup and enough herbal, dark red fruit flavors to match the earthiness of the black beans.

Prices are reasonable with many dishes under $10; portions are large and the décor is upscale casual, with linen napkins and tablecloths. I will go back to try their breakfast crab bruschetta, and their Bailey’s Irish Cream and Chocolate Mousse.

otv rating (0 to 20)

food: 17
service: 16
vibe: 16
price: Breakfast/lunch $  Dinner $$

Bread and Ink Cafe
3610 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd
Portland, Oregon
(503) 239-4756

By Laura Sabo 

Sandwiched between the Sway Bar and an electronics store lies the much-touted Bunk Sandwiches in SE Portland. Much-touted for good reason. Fans line up and order inexpensive, but generous, fare off the ginormous chalkboard, which changes frequently. Bunk has less than a dozen tables, but patrons can also watch the action on bar stools overlooking the kitchen. The day of my visit, I had a mouth-watering pork belly Cubano sandwich while my friend ordered the pulled pork with coleslaw slathered between grilled poppy-seed hard rolls from the neighborhood bakery, Fleur de Lys.

There is nothing usual or common about the sandwiches here. Possibilities include tongue on rye with onions and spicy mustard, bone marrow and snails on toast and salt cod with chorizo and black olive. For the less adventurous, offerings include meatball parmigiano hero, Italian cured meats with provolone picante and hot peppers, and roast beef with crispy onions and horseradish.

On the side I ordered a dill pickle - not just any dill pickle. This is the kind I’ve been seeking for what seems like eons. Bunk gets their pickles from Picklopolis, “The Kingdom of the Brine”, made fresh and cured in Portland. Additional sides are red beans and green rice, roasted butternut squash agro dolce, and potato salad with bacon and eggs. Save room for one of their delectable desserts, locally made cupcakes and pies. If breakfast is on your mind, you’re in luck. Bunk serves breakfast all day. Think egg, cheese and bacon combinations on hard rolls.

Partners Tommy Habetz and Nick Wood opened their doors in November 2008. They met at Portland’s Meriwether’s Restaurant where Wood was the sous chef to Chef Habetz. Habetz learned the ropes working with well known chefs Mario Batali and Bobby Flay, in New York City, while Wood was busy studying the craft at Brennan’s, a culinary phenomenon in New Orleans.

As Bunk Sandwiches’ website says, “we figured we would let your tongues do the talking … it will be virtually impossible for you to go away disappointed.” I couldn’t agree more.

Bunk Sandwiches
621 SE Morrison Street
Portland, OR
(503) 477-9515

www.bunksandwiches.com
www.picklopolis.com
www.meriwethersnw.com

Fleur de Lys (3930 NE Hancock St, Portland)

 

To visit Lady Di’s is like being transported back to Jolly Ole England. Not that I’ve been there, but I’m certain this is how it must be. The owner, Moya Stephens with her charming British roots, warmly welcomes you into her shop filled with the expected tea and crumpets and hard-to-find comfort foods from across the pond. more…

Tastebud
3220 SE Milwaukee
Portland, OR
(just south of Powell Blvd.)
(503) 234-0330

On a recent northwest swing I stopped by the Wildwood Restaurant in Portland for lunch. Still going strong after 13 years under executive Chef Dustin Clark; Wildwood was founded by James Beard award winner (best chef in the pacific northwest) Cory Schreiber.  

The focus is still all about fresh locally sourced ingredients. Standout dishes I tried included skillet roasted Totten Inlet Mussels and a wonderful pan seared Black Cod. wine list is left/west coast… 30+ pinot noirs from oregon alone! full bar. - spring 2008 - jas

(0 to 20) off the vine rating:

food: 17+
service: 16
vibe: 17

Wildwood Restaurant  view map
1221 NW 21st Ave
Portland, Oregon
(503) 248-9663